The most distinctive feature of a Hawaiian buffet is that it will serve up everything that any missionary, field worker, plantation manager, and carpetbagger who happened to set foot on these islands thought of as soul food, brimming with taste memories from Japan, Korea, Philippines, China, Portugal, and New England. Food entrees and side dishes appear that were never meant to sit next to each other on a plate, never mind be in the same room. Macaroni and Kim Chi. Korean Barbecue, Bibingka, and Spam. Pancit and Sushi Rolls. And to crown it off, Kalua Pork, Tuna Poke, and Poi.
You can never have too many carbs. Noodles, bread, and rice..... great mounds of it...... are the basis of every meal, to be topped of by meat or fish that is marinated in soy sauce, and topped with two fried eggs and gravy. That last meal is also known as the Loco Moco and is guaranteed to fortify you against the forty year famine.
Now this all sounds like an abomination to all you food snobs (And I know who you are!), but there have been the occasional imaginative chefs who have pulled together from this cacophony of flavors, the absolute culinary sublime. Delicately grilled Ono in a coconut milk and lime reduction. Barbecued skirt steak marinated in garlic, peppers, and ground coffee. Avocado, papaya, and macadamia nut guacamole. East meets West and conquers the Pacific.
But for now, it's spam, pancit and sushi! Aloha!
Saturday, November 21, 2009
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